Blame it all on Marcos. At least, that's the attitude in Manila. As residents of this sprawling capital will tell you, in the 1960s Japan and the Philippines were the only countries in Asia with booming economies. Now most of Manila is dirty, bedraggled and in serious need of an overhaul -- the only saving grace seems to be the irrepressible friendliness of the Filipinos themselves.
But there are glimmers of hope. Makati, the new commercial centre, is slick, clean and efficient. Other areas, like Mandaluyong, are developing quickly. As the economy improves, so do conditions in the capital. Fortunately, Manila is an easy city to escape, and if you want to do anything in your free time, local enthusiasts will put you on the right track.
Manila has a long history which goes back well before the Spanish settlement in the 16th century to the arrival of Chinese traders in the 17th century. It's easy to see the region's appeal: the huge expanse of Manila Bay makes an ideal anchorage. Now the modern city occupies most of the coastline and stretches right across a narrow isthmus to a huge lake called Laguna de Bay. Unfortunately, both bodies of water are grimy, polluted and unsuitable for recreational activities. However, by driving north to Subic Bay or south to Batangas, you'll find water that is ideal for scuba diving, swimming and boardsailing.
You don't have to go far out of the city to find areas that are good for mountain biking or hiking. Corregidor Island, which offers both, is just one hour and 10 minutes away by boat. But perhaps the biggest plus point for any adventure traveller in Manila is the enthusiasm of the local people. You'll find clubs and associations for a vast range of activities and they will always make you welcome.
BEST ESCAPES:
Hiking & trekking
The settlement in the area around Manila is intense -- this city really sprawls -- and it takes at least an hour of driving from downtown before you really start to leave the city behind.
Lake Taal, on the southwest side of Laguna de Bay about two hours drive to the south, is perhaps the best country escape. The lake, set inside a vast volcanic crater, holds an island which is also a crater, and within that is another lake. There are walking trails all over the hills and the island, which can be reached by banca (outrigger boat) from the village of San Nicolas. A trekking package is available from nearby Taal Vista Hote at a cost of 750 pesos per person.
About one hour from Manila is Mount Makiling, a dormant volcano of 1090m. You can climb it in a day, or hike around its base for a few hours. Just behind Mount Makiling is the Hidden Valley Springs Resort where you can hike through 10 hectares of lush rainforest -- foot trails are well paved -- and later soothe your body in warm, bubbling hot springs.
Further away in San Pablo City, one and a half hours from the capital, is Villa Escudero, a hacienda built within a colonial coconut plantation. There are walks around the cascading Labasin Waterfalls, and if you have time for an overnight stay, the resort's bamboo cottages offer tranquil views across a palm-fringed lake.
Mountain biking
Mountain bikes are popular here, and the local clubs and shops will welcome you with open arms. Two recommended rides are the Antipolo "Survival Trail" and a blast around Corregidor Island, which has a unique landscape of tropical gardens, shattered ruins and World War II memorials.
The "Survival Trail" is an excellent hard ride and is used for international events. Start in the town of Antipolo, about 45 minutes from Quezon (part of greater Manila), and ride to Bosoboso, then find the J. Hernandez Cycling Station. From there, a 3km stretch of rutted, winding road heads east to the trailhead. The terrain is varied and demanding, with several river crossings, steep climbs and wild downhills. The 17km route takes about one hour 15 minutes.
Corregidor, an hour and 10 minutes by boat from Manila, was the site of a famous World War II battle, and is now a living museum dedicated to war heroes. Most of the roads around the island are paved, but there are several steep and challenging routes as well as many minor tracks through rough terrain. It's great riding, an extremely pretty environment, and a memorable history lesson.
Rock climbing
This is Asia's "party-on" country, so it's not surprising the locals enjoy rock. There are a few excellent venues close to Manila.
Montalban, a beautiful, forested gorge, is just one and a half hours drive from Manila. The limestone climbing crags are scattered amidst the forest but easily accessible by foot trails. All are within 45 minutes walk of the parking area. About 40 routes, from 5.0 to 5.12b, have been established -- the Walkway and the Sanctuary are the most popular -- but a wealth of untouched faces and overhangs up to 90m high gives the area great potential for many more routes. Roofs and overhangs here can be climbed even on rainy days.
Other popular climbing areas are Cogeo, an hour from Manila, and Antipolo. The latter has good bouldering -- the areas commonly used are top-roped -- ideal for a weekend workout.
Scuba diving
Divers in Manila can easily get to good diving in other parts of the archipelago, such as Palawan or the Visayas, so the main considerations are simply the amount of time you want to spend on getting to a particular dive site.
Probably the quickest and easiest option is Batangas, a popular coastal resort area about two hours drive south of Manila. Its main appeal as a diving destination is good access to a wide variety of dive sites and an abundance of colourful reef life. Pelagics are rare in these waters, but there's good coral and the area positively bristles with small fish and invertebrates.
The best-known site in the area is the Cathedral, a popular fish-feeding station that consists of two coral-covered underwater formations. It's also unusual in having a man-made cross, planted at 15m by none other than President Fidel Ramos. Also recommended are Bajura, an offshore reef with beautiful coral gardens interspersed with stretches of drop-off; and Mainit Point, which has been known to attract turtles and eagle rays. There is a wide range of dive operators in the area.
Boardsailing
Good news if you are a boardsailor and you're in Manila: there are a number of good boardsailing venues within a couple of hours' drive of the capital, and an active local sailing scene. With the notable exception of Olongapo (see "Don't miss this!" below), if you are looking for high-performance conditions, the best time to sail is during the northeast monsoon, which blows from October or November till the end of March.
The best and most popular spot is a freshwater lake, Caliraya, just 110km southeast of Manila. Located right over near the Pacific coast of Luzon, the lake gets the full force of the northeast monsoon. Expect lots of 5.0-5.8sq m days, with some 4.0-4.5sq m days. Every weekend, Manila-based boardsailors drive out to the lake, camp on its grassy shores, sail and socialize.
A popular coastal sailing site is Anilao, which is also the base for the Philippine Olympic boardsailing team. Anilao is located near Batangas, on the edge of Balayan Bay, a broad crescent of a bay about 150km to the south of Manila that faces towards the island of Mindoro. The main attraction of sailing here is simply the huge area of the bay itself plus a wide range of coastal conditions from flat water to waves. To get to Anilao, take the South Expressway from Manila, go through Lipa City then Batangas.
Surfing
A weekend stopover doesn't offer much in the way of opportunity for the visiting surfer. The famous reef breaks of the Philippines -- Catanduanes and Siargao islands -- are at least two days of travelling away. But there is some hope. The Zambales coast, just to the north of Subic Bay, has several beach and break points. The drawback is that they only work from August to November, when they are whipped up by typhoon activity off the east coast. Best is the left-hand point break at Capones. Bring your own gear, stay in the bungalows at Capones and don't forget to explore the shore breaks and river-mouth breaks located just up the beach to the north.
ALL IN ONE PLACE:
Subic Bay/Olongapo
For a good, all-round quick fix escape from Manila, Subic Bay is the best option. Since the Americans moved out in 1991 -- it was their biggest naval base outside the USA -- the Subic Bay/Olongapo area has been desperately trying to salvage its damaged economy. The area has a very high potential for action sports, and both the local government and a number of small entrepreneurs are working hard to create a good, functional infrastructure. Stay at Barrio Baretto rather than on the base itself to get a better feel for the local area.
Scuba diving: Get wrecked! Remnants from a century of military occupancy are spread all over the floor of the bay. Local dive operators have already identified 19 good wrecks, but there may be as many as 80. Best dives are the USS New York, El Capitan and a Japanese patrol boat. Areas of the bay are also rich in marine life.
Boardsailing: One of the few places in the Philippines that is good to visit in the southwest monsoon (June-October). Expect 10-15-knot planing conditions most weekends. The water is clean, though not crystal clear, and the huge bay is a spectacular sailing environment. Bring your own gear.
Hiking: Excellent trails through the Zambales Mountains and the valleys behind Barrio Baretto give you a feeling for Philippines country life. However, the star attraction is undoubtedly JEST, the Jungle Environmental Survival Training school, where Aetas -- the local native people -- taught jungle survival skills to Vietnam-bound soldiers. The Aetas now offer one to 10-day courses for civilians. This unique back-to-the-jungle experience from people who have been in the business about 10,000 years is highly recommended.
Mountain biking: Good rides in the area include the lahar (volcanic mud) fields of Pinatubo, the San Isidoro Trail and Gordon Heights. The local mountain biking club, called BINGO, welcomes visitors.
Sea canoeing: Subic Bay Aqua Sports rents out polypropylene kayaks, both two-man and one-man. Explore untouched areas of shoreline, or visit Grande and Snake islands in the mouth of the Bay. On a still day, you can paddle all the way around to Capones and up the Zambales coast.
