Even in this age of jet travel, when geographical distance is no longer a major hurdle to international travel, many people are still reluctant to accept the extra "hassle" of travelling to more distant destinations - even if that journey entails nothing more arduous than spending a few additional hours in a plane. It's a psychological barrier of significance both for local tourism industries and for adventure travellers in Asia who may be missing out on a broader range of experiences. That's why, in this special supplement, we're pleased to introduce the island of Mauritius. It's just one of a series of destinations we plan to cover that, although strictly outside Asia, offer high-performance conditions for action sports, and at the same time are accessible enough to be a very realistic alternative to an adventure holiday in Asia. We hope you find plenty to enjoy in this adventure review of Mauritius. As you'll see, this island may be laid-back but it has a lot to offer in terms of outdoors action.
As every adventure traveller has at some time discovered, the problem with being on a "paradise" island is that there are times when there seems to be nothing to do. It's certainly a frustration that faced the Dutch sailors who tried to establish the first small colony on Mauritius in the seventeenth century. According to at least one version of history, they got so bored with life on this uninhabited island - even if it was a tropical paradise - that they used to go on drunken rampages through the forests killing the large flightless birds called dodos that were endemic to the island. The poor dodos - having evolved without any natural predators - were unafraid of humans and defenceless against the attacks. History has recorded the eventual result of these encounters, and the expression "Dead as a dodo" is still a clear statement of extinction.
Of course, if the sailors had arrived in Mauritius today they wouldn't have had to resort to such ecologically irresponsible methods of getting some action. They'd be far too busy exploring the island's undersea reefs with scuba tanks, surfing the perfect tubes of Tamarin Bay, boardsailing across gin-clear lagoons in blasting trade winds, hiking in the lush gorges of the interior or enjoying some of the world's finest game fishing. Mauritius is still in many respects a paradise island, but for action sports enthusiasts it's definitely not boring.
Out of Africa
For Asians, perhaps the most surprising fact about Mauritius is its accessibility. Although this volcanic island in the Indian Ocean is closer to Africa than Asia - it lies about 800km east of Madagascar - direct overnight air connections from several Asian cities mean that it has the best of both worlds: it's as easy to get to as many holiday destinations in Asia, yet offers an experience that is definitely different and exotic.
Much of the island's exotic feel comes from its diverse mix of cultures: Hindus make up more than half the population of just over a million, together with Créoles (the descendants of African slaves), Muslims, Chinese and Franco-Mauritians. The result is a distinctive atmosphere that's part Asian, part African and part French. You'll hear French and Créole spoken everywhere. Mauritius is quite developed, although the island's size, measuring 58km by 47km, ensures that it never feels overcrowded. The resorts, in particular, are evenly spaced out around the coast, and even Grand Baie in the north, the major tourist centre, is very laid-back. The overall feel is of a prosperous, multicultural community that's safe for visitors and free from most of the problems associated with mass tourism.
But while the culture is an added plus, for the adventure traveller the main attraction of Mauritius is its distinctive geography - many aspects of which lend themselves ideally to outdoors action. First and foremost are the coral reefs that virtually ring the entire island. They offer fine diving, shape ocean swells into waves for both surfing and boardsailing, and create the huge, spectacular lagoons, ideal for watersports of all kinds, that are the defining feature of the Mauritian coastline. You can virtually guarantee that, wherever you stay, there'll be a broad, blue, inviting lagoon lapping at the beach right in front of your resort. Only along the wild south coast is there a significant stretch of shoreline with no reef, and here waves crash against black cliffs and boulders.
Away from the coast, Mauritius has less to offer the adventurer. Much of the land is flat and covered in cane fields - sugar has long been a major industry - but there are still some extremely spectacular landforms. All over the island, you'll see jagged ridges and peaks rising abruptly in sheer cliffs out of the surrounding plains. Apart from making scenic backdrops to the beaches, many of these mountains have good hiking trails. You'll also find occasional reminders of the island's volcanic past, including extinct crater lakes nestled in hills, and piles of lava boulders in the fields.
Now let's take an in-depth look at what Mauritius has to offer for various activities. We'll start below the water, with the most developed of all the island's action sports: scuba diving.
Scuba Diving
Diving is popular in Mauritius, and there are no less than 27 dive centres located around the island. Although the conditions here aren't world-class, there's still plenty to keep even die-hard underwater adventurers happy, and a very wide variety of dive sites to choose from.
Overall, Mauritian reefs aren't quite as colourful or busy as those in some parts of Asia, but there's still lots of interesting marine life. With a few notable exceptions when you're underwater you tend to have to look for things rather than being constantly surrounded by swarms of fish. Mauritius is a fantastic place to dive if you enjoy poking around on reefs looking for strange creatures under rocks or in crevices. Divers can find many species of moray eel, lobsters, stonefish, lionfish and numerous other members of the scorpionfish family. Free-swimming schools and pelagics can also be seen at many better dive-spots, however, especially deeper on the walls. The long coastline creates a wide range of bottom profiles and underwater formations, from shallow sandy reefs to short drop-offs, undersea canyons and boulder gardens. Rugged, rocky formations such as arches, chimneys, caves and craggy overhangs are especially common features at many dive sites.
Apart from natural formations, artificial reefs - ships that have been sunk deliberately to create wrecks - play an important part in Mauritian diving. Currently there are about 10 such wrecks around the island, and the Mauritian Scuba Diving Association (MSDA) has plans to sink another four or five.
So where should you go to dive? There's fine diving all around the island, and with operators located along the north, east and west coasts, your choice of dive spots is most likely to be determined by the location of your hotel and the weather. The east coast has fewer hotels, dive shops or game fishing centres, though it arguably offers slightly higher chances of encounters with big marine animals. However, between June and October, when the southeast trade winds are blowing, rough seas make this side of the island difficult to dive. Although the dive centres stay open all year, if you're staying on the east coast during this period you'll spend most of your holiday travelling by bus to more sheltered sites on the north and west coasts.
If any dive on the island is a must, it's The Cathedral , off La Pirogue Sun Hotel at Flic en Flac on the west coast. This underwater cavern in 27m of water is part of a particularly rugged stretch of reef made up of rock arches, tunnels, chimneys and craggy overhangs. The main attraction is the dramatic effect created by sunlight streaming down through a fissure in the roof of the cave - a feature that makes it especially popular for underwater photography. The Cathedral is also home to a colourful array of marine creatures that includes packs of squirrelfish and soldierfish, catfish, lobsters, large octopus and giant moray eels.
Nearby is Snake Place, another good west-coast dive, where a row of coral and boulders winds like a serpent across a sand bottom at 26m - hence the name. There are masses of stonefish and weird types of scorpionfish here - from the very rare Mauritius scorpionfish to the "Indian walkman." The latter is not, as the name suggests, a personal stereo playing Hindi music, but a scorpionfish with special "legs" that it uses to drag itself along the bottom. Like most scorpionfish, it's a master of camouflage, but divers can easily locate it by following its tracks across the sand.
Coin de Mire, a wedge-shaped island off the northern tip of Mauritius, offers a variety of excellent dives for all levels, from shallow sand patches that are ideal for beginners to drop-offs, canyons and caves. There's also a big French anchor nearby that's about 200 years old and encrusted with coral. Also popular on the north coast is Whale Rock, an undulating reef with huge coral bommies, black corals, whip corals and gorgonians.
One of the best places for big fish action is even further off the north coast. Pigeon Rock, a pinnacle that rises above the surface just next to Ile Plate ("Flat Island"), about 10km off the northern tip of Mauritius, is regularly patrolled by dozens of sharks, schools of barracuda, kingfish and big parrotfish.
Surfing
When the now-legendary surf film, enigmatically titled The Forgo tten Island of Santosha, captured the imagination of the surfing world in 1974 with its spectacular footage of screaming barrels on the outer reef at Tamarin Bay, it established Mauritius as the quintessential exotic surf spot of its day. Since then, other breaks in places such as Fiji, Indonesia and even nearby Réunion have taken over Tamarin Bay's mantle as the world's premier surfing locations, but Mauritius has never lost its exotic allure and continues to attract a steady stream of pilgrims. Many surf travellers pass through Mauritius for a few days en route to/from South Africa; and an international crew of surfers is in residence throughout the "winter" wave season, along with a group of local Franco- and Indo-Mauritian surfers.
Mauritius' best waves are created by intense storms that form in the lower latitudes of the Indian Ocean between April and October and push big swells to the north and east, where the coral reefs of islands like Mauritius bend and shape this raw energy into ridable, sometimes perfect, waves. This is also the season when the southeast trade winds are blowing, producing offshore winds that create beautiful conditions for surfing on the west and north sides of the island.
Undoubtedly the best wave here is the famous left-hand reef break at Tamarin Bay, also known as "Cap Dal." It's world-class. While it's not the biggest wave here, what makes it special is its perfect shape. It peels with machine-like precision along a shallow ledge of coral on the left-hand side of Tamarin Bay, forming fantasy walls that can reach 4-12ft in height. Big swells can produce rides of 200m that are incredibly fast on the outside with barrels possible on the extremely shallow inside bowl. Unfortunately, only the biggest winter swells can wrap into the bay far enough to produce ridable waves. Even in the peak season, weeks can go by with barely a ripple over 2ft. But when it's working, it's one of the world's finest lefts.
Far more consistent than Tamarin Bay, although not quite so perfect, are two high-powered reef breaks off the Le Morne Brabant Peninsula, in the southwest corner of the island. The peninsula juts out into the Indian Ocean and snags incoming swells of any size. Passe de l'Ambulant e is a fast and hollow left-hander that can be 6ft and firing when Tamarin is pushing 2ft ankle-snappers. Further south along the same reef is One Eye's, a short, hollow right. It works best on south swells and usually gets up to around 3-6ft. The break is named after an ancient one-eyed caretaker of a former private estate opposite the reef who was known to take drunken potshots with a shotgun at trespassing surfers. The estate is now the site of major new resort complex, so public access is less hazardous. Both of these waves can be dangerous to paddle, however, as they break over shallow coral in channels in the outer reef. During big swells or tide changes powerful currents flow through these channels, and there are also often strong offshore winds. If the local fishermen say the sea is "running strong" don't go out unless you have a boat and an experienced local surfer on board.
Another occasionally excellent spot is Macondé, off Baie du Cap. This heavy left-hand reef break on the south coast usually has swell but is vulnerable to the southeast trades which blow onshore here. But on rare glassy days in winter it can be superb - over 10ft - and is also a good bet during off-season swells when winds are from the north.
Boardsailing
With its warm water, steady trade winds, and a range of sailing sites that offer everything from mast-high waves to flat water, Mauritius is one of the best-kept secrets on the international boardsailing map. It should appeal particularly to proficient Asian shortboarders who are looking for a high-wind alternative to Hawaii during the northern hemisphere's summer.
The prime season for boardsailing is from May to October, when the southeast trades blow a steady 15-25 knots for 70% of the time. In addition to the consistent winds, the island's broad lagoons and long coastline offer a wide variety of conditions. This allows boardsailors of all abilities, from intermediate upwards, to find a sailing site appropriate to their skill level, although to get the most out of everything Mauritius has to offer you really need to be an advanced sailor and comfortable in surf. As a general guide, the east coast is best for slalom sailing, with safe onshore winds and flat-water lagoons; the southwest of the island has radical wave-sailing; the north coast offers conditions somewhere between these two extremes.
The only flaw in an otherwise perfect boardsailing set-up is the lack of good equipment. There are no rental outfits on Mauritius with high-performance boards, and no boardsailing shops. While all the hotels offer "boardsailing" as one of their watersports activities, their equipment consists mostly of long beginners' planks. If you plan to sail seriously here bring all your own equipment. An ideal quiver for Mauritius is two boards: a short wave or wave-slalom convertible if you plan to sail at Le Morne; and a slightly longer slalom board for lagoon sailing and lightwind days. If you're of medium weight, you'll get most use out of sails in the range of 5.0-5.5sq m, although you'll also need sails down to 4.5sq m and up to 6.0sq m for stronger/lighter days. A shorty, reef booties and strong sunscreen are also useful.
Mauritius' best boardsailing spot is Le Morne, a world-class wave-sailing playground with a perfect combination of big, peeling waves and sideshore winds. Several top international wave-sailing stars - including Hawaiian hotshot Josh Angulo and Italian wave maestro Cesare Cantagalli - recently made trips here on photo-shoots and rated Le Morne as one of the most exciting venues they'd discovered in years. It's located on the tip of the Le Morne Brabant Peninsula, with a south-facing beach and a reef about 500m offshore. To get to the launch site, drive south past the Le Paradis and Berjaya hotels, then continue straight on along a dirt track to a public beach. There's a grassy area here to rig up on, and the sandy beach is easy to launch from. Mountains behind the peninsula create a venturi effect, so the wind is always 5-10 knots stronger here than on the east coast. If it's 6.0 weather on the other side of the island, you'll be hanging on to a 5.4 or 5.0sq m sail here. This peninsula is one of the first points on the island to pick up the prevailing swells from the southwest, and the waves here can range from 2-3ft ramps on the inside section of the reef to thundering, mast-high walls of water on the outer reef. Needless to say, on a big day safety is a major concern. Apart from the power of the waves, the reefs are shallow, there are strong currents and rips in the reef passes, and there's no lee shore to land on if you get into trouble. As if that weren't enough, boardsailors have also reported seeing large tiger sharks in the reef passes, although the problem is nothing like as bad as in neighbouring Réunion, which is notorious for shark attacks!
Slalom sailors and flat-water speedsters should head east to Poi nte Desny, where the island's largest lagoon - it stretches nearly 20km up the coast - has created an ideal drag-strip. The trades blow onshore, so safety is no problem, and the angle of the wind is perfect for making long, screaming reaches up the coast. Overall, the conditions here are much less intense than at Le Morne, ideal for less experienced shortboard sailors or if you simply want a break from heavy-duty waves. Pointe Desny is the best launch spot. It's a long, sandy beach on a headland at the southern end of the lagoon. Access is tricky, since most of the beach is lined by private houses; but you can get onto the beach at the south end, near Blue Bay.
In the north, Cap Malheureux is a good area for general shortboard blasting in a variety of sea conditions, and has something to offer both slalom and wave sailors. The southeast trades blow sideshore, and there are some good waves on offshore reefs, although they're generally smaller and more forgiving than in the south. This area also works well if the wind shifts slightly to the east or northeast. Cap Malheureux is also the venue for an annual race, held every July.
Hiking
Mountains cover too small an area of Mauritius to make it a serious destination for hiking - sooner or later, you always end up in flat, open cane fields - but a few pockets of hilly country offer very pleasant short hikes and a refreshing change from the beaches. What the Mauritian mountains lack in height they certainly make up for in dramatic features, with sheer cliffs rising into jagged ridges and fantastically sculpted peaks.
An unusual highlight of hiking here is the occasional chance to see rare species of birds. These include the Mauritius kestrel - one of the world's most successful conservation stories - which was miraculously brought back from the verge of extinction. Only four birds were left in 1974, but a successful reintroduction project has raised its numbers to some 320 birds in the wild.
Note: Many trails run through private hunting reserves. Although you'll seldom be bothered if you don't disturb anything, if you plan to walk anywhere that's outside a national park boundary, or not on a popular, well-trodden hiking trail, you may have to seek special permission. Also - for obvious reasons - take extreme care if you're passing through an area that's being used for hunting. The main hunting season is June to September.
Black River Gorges National Park: This newly-formed national park - the first in Mauritius - is the area of greatest interest to hikers. Located in the southwest of the island, it has more than 50km of scenic trails and forestry roads that traverse a landscape of steep ridges, plunging ravines and spectacular waterfalls.
The main drawback to this area is that as yet park facilities haven't been properly set up. There's only a very basic information centre at Le Pétrin - the start point for several hikes - and the trails themselves are often poorly marked.
One of the best walks is to the summit of the Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire, at 828m the highest point on the island. It's an easy 3km trail from the Chamarel-Le Pétrin road along a ridge. Most of the trail is enclosed in woods, but expansive views from the summit make it worth the climb.
Also highly recommended is a hike from Les Marres (about 3km south of Le Pétrin) to Bassin Blanc, an idyllic crater lake fringed with forest. It takes about 1hr 30mins and offers fine views over mountains towards the south coast.
La Pouce: This sharp, thumb-shaped peak overlooking Port Louis is one of the most popular short hikes in Mauritius, and a great introduction to outdoor walking here. The trail starts just outside Port Louis, climbs to a grassy plateau, then swings behind the back of the mountain and up a gully to arrive at the summit (812m). The route to the trailhead is easier to find than to describe: but the peak is visible from the town, and the locals will readily give you directions along the way.
Domaine du Chasseur: This hunting estate, set amid rolling green hills in the southeast of the island, has a couple of short trails. It's not real adventure hiking, but it's a beautiful area, with attractions that include 4WD tours, hunting, six hillside bungalows and an excellent open-air restaurant.
Other Activities
Game fishing: Mauritius is one of the world's leading game fishing centres, and record-breaking marlin, sailfish, sharks and other big fish are regularly caught off its coast. The major tourist centres and hotels have deep-sea fishing fleets or can arrange fishing trips.
Yacht charters: With its clear tropical lagoons and steady winds, Mauritius is made for coastal cruising, and a number of yacht charter operators here offer tours. Catamarans are especially popular as their shallow draft makes them ideal for slipping in and out of lagoons. There's usually a variety of options, from day excursions along the coast or to offshore islands, to custom charters for diving or fishing trips.
Water-skiing: The island's massive lagoons offer ideal conditions for water-skiing, and the all-in-one price policy adopted by most of the major hotels means you can water-ski all day if you want to without paying extra - a real bonus.
Paragliding: Mauritius has a fledgling paragliding scene, and the island's ragged peaks and tropical lagoons make for stunning aerial scenery. The steep slopes offer good ridge-soaring conditions, and there's also very good potential for thermalling and cross-country flying. The abundance of cane fields ensures plenty of open, flat spaces for landing. The best conditions for flying are from February to March. La Tourelle Paragliding Club, based in Black River, has a membership of about 15 trainee pilots. You can't hire gliders, but if you bring your own canopy the club members will be happy to show you the best flying sites
Acknowledgements
Action Asia wishes to thank the Mauritius Government Tourist Office, Air Mauritius, La Pirogue Hotel Sun International and Le Paradis Hotel Beachcomber for their support in the preparation of this article.
Mauritius' radical relaxation is an amazing departure from everyday stresses. The scenery is spectacular, the diving is divine, the watersports are wonderful and the hospitality is legendary.
