Driving down Australia's Gold Coast Highway to Burleigh on a summer's day is one of life's great rejuvenating experiences. With your boards on the roof, the radio blasting trash rock and roll, golden beaches sliding by on your left, and this ultimate right-hand barrel waiting for you, it doesn't matter what's happening with your job, your life or global politics. For now, the world is close to perfect.

As you pull in under the towering Norfolk pines that line the beach, you see immediately why Burleigh is so famous. Unlike most of the waves found along the Gold Coast, these are long, thick, heavy and slightly menacing. As one charges in towards the beach, the section nearest the rocks pitches forward and breaks in the shape of a glass cylinder. The break continues smoothly and evenly down the line of the wave, sometimes going hundreds of metres across the bay. It's the stuff that surfing dreams are made of.

The attitude

Back in the early 60s, when board-riding was just starting to boom in Australia, Burleigh was considered by many to be an unrideable wave. In those not-so-good old days, the average board was over 9ft long and had the handling finesse of an oil tanker. A smooth bottom turn was an achievement of some note, and falling off your board -- there were no leg-ropes -- meant a long swim to the beach. At Burleigh the situation was even worse: those rocks along the point were always waiting to devour both surfer and board.

Nevertheless, a group of aggressive locals couldn't resist the challenge, and took constant risks to drive full power into Burleigh's deep barrels. Very few could handle the conditions, and the small, select band who succeeded naturally considered themselves superior to other surfers -- and probably were. The aura of Burleigh as a proving ground began to spread. This was also the time of the "surfing safari", when packs of dedicated surfers piled their boards on to battered old vans and drove up and down the coast hunting for waves. Burleigh was the equivalent of going nose to nose with a Bengal tiger. But if you were dedicated, the wave was an irresistible challenge, and the rocky headland formed a natural amphitheatre for spectators to watch in admiration or amusement as the next contender tried to make it into the pantheon of local surfgods.

About the same time this Burleigh macho mystique was starting to build, a group of American board designers were experimenting with shorter boards, different types of fins and a variety shapes that vastly improved speed and handling. They began to fine-tune specific boards to particular types of wave -- and were especially interested in mastering fast, hollow point breaks like Burleigh. Compared to the standard longboards, these new creations were wildly fast, turned brilliantly and allowed the rider to hold unimaginable positions higher up on the wave.

Suddenly surfers were free to charge all over the wave face. A whole new range of moves evolved, and a new style of surfing developed. Late drops, powered-up bottom turns, off-the-lips, re-entries and down-the-line speed became the standard repertoire of even an average board-rider. The best of them -- with Hawaiian Jerry Lopez leading the way -- started working out how to draw in close to the wall of a hollow wave, let the lip curl over their head, then blast out the end of the barrel before it closed down on top of them. Tube riding was born.

All the hot surfers wanted now was more power, longer rides and fast, hollow waves. Burleigh offered all three in abundance.

Local board designers like Dick van Straalen and the Neilsen Brothers seized on these new concepts, and started producing boards that let a new generation tear into Burleigh's waves in ways that had never been seen before. The gutsy determination of the previous generation was translated into an exceptionally aggressive, attacking style -- referred to at the time as "power surfing". One of these young innovators, Nat Young, blasted his way to victory in the World Championships -- the first Australian ever to do so. His high-powered, belligerent style -- developed in the waves at Burleigh -- took the Californians and Hawaiians by storm.

But such was the quality and intensity of surfing in Burleigh at that time that not even the World Champion was regarded as the best performer on the local break. That honour belonged to a pugnacious, outspoken young man named Peter Drouyn, whose attitude and raw egotism almost overshadowed his remarkable surfing ability. But as a result of his attitude, he was to transform modern professional surfing.

Before Drouyn, surfing contests were judged on style and originality of moves. It was very subjective, and many argued that in a closely matched field it boiled down to who got the good waves. Drouyn brushed all this aside and created a "man-on-man" system in which competitors were paired off and put through elimination heats. Both surfers had a set period of time to compete for the same waves; the one who performed best won -- and moved on to the next elimination heat. It didn't matter whether the waves were good or bad: skill should prevail. It was also an interesting competitive format that onlookers could watch, understand and get actively involved in. At last surfing had a broader audience. This was the birth of modern competitive surfing, and the breakthrough idea that turned the professional side of the sport into a multimillion-dollar industry.

Appropriately, the first-ever man-on-man competition was held at Burleigh. It was won by an exceptionally talented local surfer named Michael Peterson. The runner-up was another Burleigh regular, Wayne Bartholomew, who went on to win a world championship and become one of Australia's most successful professionals.

In the early 80s, when Simon Anderson invented the thruster and ushered in the era of crash-and-burn wave pyrotechnics, Burleigh retained its place as a definitive break for any power-hungry Australian surfer, and continued as a respected venue for numerous national and international events.

The wave

When experienced surfers talk about Burleigh, they always refer to the unusual speed and thickness of the wave; its relentless, driving power; and the length of the tube ride.

The spectacular barrels are formed by the unique alignment of Burleigh's headland and its fringing sand-bar. When a wave rolls down the side of the headland, it gets pushed sideways, compresses into a thicker, heavier shape, and accelerates. At the same time, it strikes the shallow sand shelf that surrounds the headland and starts to break. It's the symmetry between the shelf and headland that causes the swell to keep breaking evenly all the way down the line as it roars into the beach. The speed and thickness of the wave causes the top to pitch over as it breaks, forming the deep cylindrical barrel. On a good day, it's possible to ride these waves for hundreds of metres, and stay inside the barrels for up to 10 seconds.

Basically there's just one break. It starts off the headland, but -- depending on the tide, the size of the swell and your ability -- there are different points where you can commence your take-off. The locals have given each of these points a name.

Furthest out is Sharkys, which earned its name because of its proximity to Tallebudgera Creek, a feeding ground for sharks. Surfers out here often see sharks pass by, but no one has ever been attacked. Making the wave from Sharkys is difficult unless you're a tube-riding genius or have a board as fast as a racing car. This is pretty much for locals who know the place well and want to avoid the crowds closer in.

The most popular take-off point is The Cove, directly opposite the small bay at the tip of the headland where most people launch and paddle out (see "Survival tips" below). From here, you can pick off the first solid wave of a set, ride it in till it starts to reform at the third take-off point -- Pandanas -- then carry on down the line to finish in front of Choices Restaurant.

It's worth noting that as the wave rounds the headland, the sideways wash of water can make it appear to ease off then suddenly reform, or to double in size when you least expect it. This phenomenon can give you a big, powerful blast that will be the highlight of your day, or drive you straight into the bottom with bone-crunching force. It's just one of the added thrills of a session at Burleigh.

Survival tips

Catching a Burleigh screamer when it's coming in at full charge can be a heart-stopping moment -- especially as those jagged, black rocks always seem to be staring you straight in the face. But the simple act of paddling out here is also an adventure in its own right that involves some serious risks. First you have to perform a delicate dance on the rocks, hopping over the boulders until you get to a position where you can launch into the sea. Then you wait for an incoming wave to surge over the rocks, leap on, and paddle out with the backwash. Timing is critical, and two things can go wrong: either you jump when there is insufficient water underneath you and find yourself high and dry, paddling on bare rock; or you leave your launch too late and the oncoming wave simply bowls you over before you have a chance to launch. If you bungle it completely and lose a lot of skin, don't worry: you're not the first, and you won't be the last.

When you've paddled out, at last latched on to a surging monster, powered down the line and blasted in ecstasy straight out the tube -- you could run into another problem: paddling back out. If you get caught inside when it's 6ft or over, the southerly sweep is very strong, and you can find yourself paddling endlessly, going nowhere but getting constantly hammered by incoming waves. The locals have an escape route: running along the rocks on the inside channel is a moderate current that will tow you out through the break. Failing that, you have to get out of the water and relaunch from the rocks at the Cove. When the surf is in the 10ft-plus range, the southerly sweep is overpowering; experienced surfers paddle out from Tallebudgera Creek to avoid jumping off the rocks.

Equipment

As usual, the equipment you'll need depends on the size of the swell. When it gets over 8ft, it's time to go for your guns. Popular choices with experienced Burleigh locals are Hawaiian-designed mini-guns in the 7-8ft range. If the swell is 6-8ft, your standard thruster is fine, though it's worth keeping in mind that these are fast, powerful waves: you're better off with something that's a bit too long rather than far too short. On smaller days, 4ft and under, the Burleigh Rock Break comes into play. This is a fun wave that calls for very short boards but, as the name implies, the break is precariously close to the rocks. If you get too close in the wrong place, you can rip out your fins. As the pioneers found out in 60s, there's no such thing as a time when Burleigh is a good place for longboards.

When to go

The swells that create the waves are generated either by tropical cyclones in the summer (November-January) or the protracted action of the southeast trades blowing up from the Southern Ocean. Cyclones bring the biggest swells -- sometimes up to 15ft, and dangerous to the point of being unrideable -- but the trades bring cleaner, more consistent waves. When the surf picks up, it can last for weeks. The prevailing winds have a significant effect on the quality of the waves. Through the mild Queensland winter (April--August), the continental land mass of Australia influences wind patterns. As the land cools at night, the sea stays relatively warm and in the pre-dawn hours starts drawing the wind offshore. It holds up the waves and hollows them out even more than usual. Around sunrise temperatures even out and the wind dies completely: if you're out at that time, you're presented with the wonderful sight of long walls of water rising up from a glassy, golden sea. As the land starts to heat up, the wind is drawn onshore. The waves stay clean, though the tops can get blown off, making take-off a bit bumpy. Overall, the winter months are inconsistent for surf.

In summer, from October to January, the wind is mainly from the northeast, blowing onshore and helping pack the sand around the point. Burleigh's surf is usually at its best from New Year till early autumn.

Other factors

When you're planning a trip to Burleigh, you should consider the massive surfing population on the Gold Coast. There are now half a million people living here, and millions more passing through as tourists. The surfing industry is second only to tourism, so you can imagine that any time there's a good swell, you're not going to be the only person chasing waves. Crowds here can turn your dream session into a nightmare. The best way to avoid them is to go out for early morning sessions -- you'll often find the cleanest surf as well -- or during working hours in the middle of the week. Fortunately there are quite a few other good breaks in the area, including Currumbin, Kirra, Greenmount and Snapper Rocks, so you always have a few options.

Climate

Queensland is warm and sunny from February to April, with air temperatures in the high 20s (degrees Celsius), and water temperatures ranging from 20-22°C. You can get away with board shorts and a Lycra rash top, though a tube-suit -- a sleeveless short-leg wetsuit -- accompanied by a rash top is the most popular routfit. During the winter months, June to September, a spring suit is still sufficient. It's only on very rare overcast days that a full wetsuit is necessary.

Getting around

The Gold Coast has an inexpensive bus system that runs along the coastal strips. They allow passengers to carry surfboards. Taxis and limousines are also readily available. Hire cars are expensive at the Coolangatta airport, but you can rent them in Surfer's Paradise for about US$14 per day.

Accommodation & food

In the low season, you can get a very reasonable short-term apartment for as little as US$130 per week. Luxury apartments on the point at Burleigh are around US$350 per week in the tourist season, and US$700 per week in Australian holiday season (December-January). Book in advance. Motels vary at US$25-40 per room per night. For backpackers, the closest hostel is 4km south of Burleigh at Palm Beach. Accommodation costs US$10 per night.

Burleigh Heads has a good choice of restaurants. The most famous is Montezumas Mexican Food which, at an average of US$10 a meal, is also good for any budget. The Paragon Seafood Restaurant, right on the beach, has good seafood at sensible prices. Choices Restaurant offers a fine view of Burleigh Point and an excellent smorgasbord (buffet).

Nightlife

There's no lack of clubs, bars and discos in nearby Surfer's Paradise. The most popular local venue is the Playroom at Tallebudgera, where every night you can see both international and Australian rock bands. There's also a disco called Fortunes at Conrad Jupiter's Casino in Broadbeach, 6km to the north.

Lifestyle & local colour

The Burleigh area is vastly different in mood from the bright lights and fast pace of Surfer's Paradise -- always visible as a line of high-rise towers on the horizon. Around Burleigh, the atmosphere is relaxed and village-like. Many of the locals have lived here a long time, know each other well and have a strong allegiance to the place. If you're a visitor, it's advisable to be polite both in the surf and out.

The Burleigh headland was formed millions of years ago by a lava flow from a big volcano that's now known as Mount Warning. The local aboriginal tribe, the Kombumerri, lived on the shores of Tallebudgera Creek, just south of the headland. They called Burleigh Jellurgal, which roughly translates as "black rock", and used it as a meeting place for social gatherings and tribal initiations. Nowadays, the whole area -- which still has a slightly mystical feel to it -- has been declared a national park. On Sundays, people gather under the tall Norfolk pines that rim the headland to have picnics and barbecues -- using it much as the aborigines did centuries before. A grassy area on top of the knoll stretches out on to the back of the headland, and beyond that there are areas of thicker bush and pandanus trees. Koalas, birds and snakes are part of the indigenous wildlife.

Burleigh is legendary for its waves -- long, heavy and slightly menacing with smooth and even breaks -- in other words, ideal for amazing rides.